I just spent the weekend out in Montauk with a good friend attempting to surf Hurricane Billy's waves. We got crashed on by 12 foot waves. Swept downshore by a current you would expect when a hurricane passes through. I was scared out of my mind on at least two separate occasions when I thought there was no way I would survive - did I mention that I'm scared of waves?
Note to all: I never got up on those 12 footers although my friend did. Kudos Andrew. Sorry I missed the photo opp. Here's your post-surf money shot.
Below are the waves out by the lighthouse in Montauk which is on the very very very tip of Long Island. It is pure unadulterated ocean. Perfect for surfing Billy's waves.
We left after we saw too many bloody surfers leave the water.
-------Time Lapse ------- Getting demolished by the waves (no pics of this, sorry)
Bored with battling waves, I grabbed my camera and started to see what other people on the beach were doing....
Upon leaving, I turned around one last time to soak in the beautiful beach and captured this shot.
By the end of the day after being banged up, washed up, bruised and tired, we felt like a million bucks. I was too tired then to appreciate it. But as I'm downloading all my pics, I sure am appreciating it now.
It was indeed a Perfect Day.

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